When we moved to Portland, we made a list of all the places we needed to see in our short time here. Some of our favorite hikes this trip have been along the coast (Big Sur, Na’pali, Muir Beach), so Cannon Beach was high on the list. You may recognize the location from a little piece of 80s cinema – The Goonies. The last weekend in February, we truffle shuffled our way to the Oregon coast in search of some vitamin sea.
The forecast called for rain, but the weather ended up being absolutely beautiful! We found a 6 mile trail that wound up the coast and ended with a view of the Tillamook Rock Lighthouse. The trail had some climbs and technical aspects, but overall was rated moderate. The most difficult part was navigating through all the mud! While Beth was not a fan (we were ill equipped with trail running shoes rather than hiking boots) Snickers had the time of her life. That pup lives for the trails.
There were quite a few people on the first half of the trail, but once it hit the beach not many people continued on. We stopped at the water to play in the surf for a bit then went on for another 3 miles. Snickers has come a long way from when she first met the Pacific; she still won’t jump in the water (can you blame her? It’s 50 degrees!) but she will “attack” the foam.
The second half of the trail was much drier and climbed a bit higher towards the Tillamook Lighthouse. That part of the hike got more direct sunlight, so we were able to shed some layers and feel the sun on our arms! It was much welcome after the chilly rains we’ve been having. We had some gorgeous views along the coast and couldn’t help but stop and take it all in. If you look closely in the second picture below you can see the Tillamook Rock Lighthouse – it’s the tiny speck on the far right. We looped around and ended up back at the beach. Rather than taking the same route, we walked part of the way back along the beach to get out of the mud for a minute, and had some fun running from the waves…they’ll sneak up on you as Matt found out.
On our way home, we stopped at the Cannon Beach Hardware store for lunch. Yep, a hardware store; there were a lot of screw and brew jokes, naturally. We downed some grub and had a beer before heading home. While it’s a drive, we definitely recommend making the day trip to the coast if you find yourself in Oregon.
We did it! We made it through another month (and 2 weeks, time is flying!). I must say, although this month certainly had its challenges, it was a million times easier than January. We’re still settling in and exploring the city (so much to do!) but so far we’re loving it.
The two biggest differences between January and February were: 1.) Matt started his job, and 2.) we didn’t have to pack up and move weekly. For those of you who aren’t aware, Matt is working with a consulting company now and travels for work 4 days a week. We decided to be stationary for a few months so that he can still experience the area on the weekends and because, quite frankly, packing up our lives and a dog by myself sounds like a nightmare. As with any big change, there’ve been growing pains but we’re slowly figuring things out.
So…Portland. We rented an apartment right in the heart of downtown. We are a stone’s throw from pretty much everything. We’re walking distance to the Willamette River, Pearl and Alphabet Districts, and a quick drive or bus ride across the river to all the breweries.
There’s been a lot of this:
A little lot of this (but, hey, we’re averaging 7 miles of walking a day so it evens out 🙂 )
PB&J chocolate ice cream from Salt and Straw
Creme brulee (with a vial of Cointreau) and blueberry bourbon basil doughnuts from Blue Star
And even more of this:
We’re excited to see what else we can get into these next two months (already have a trip to Seattle, a MLS game. and some big hikes planned). Stay tuned!
Oh, and there’s also been a little of this, because when you’re home alone with a dog for half the week you have to entertain yourself:
While we didn’t love everything about our time in California, we did manage to find some hikes that we thoroughly enjoyed. One major thing we noticed was that very few California State Parks are dog friendly, so while it wasn’t impossible to find hiking it made it a little more difficult to find nice, long hikes that Snickers could partake in with us–parking lots constitute dog friendly park icons but we are talking about actual trails. That dog loves hiking maybe more than she loves Beth, but not Matt. She could never love anything more than she loves him.
Henry Cowell State Park
Our first couple of hikes were around the Santa Cruz area at Henry Cowell State Park and the Land of Medicine Buddha. You can see some pictures from them in Santa Cruz in pictures. Henry Cowell State Park was a major letdown. Before we went, we did our research and it said that there were dog-friendly trails and found one that looked to be about 5 miles of single-track trail. Unfortunately, when we got there there were signs everywhere indicating that no dogs were allowed on that trail. In fact, the only trails that were actually dog friendly were paved trails or service roads…oh and the one “trail” that was actually a runoff ditch on the side of the road. It did look like there were decent hiking trails around and the forest was beautiful with all the redwoods, but if you’re going with a dog we’d say skip it.
Land of Medicine Buddha
The Land of Medicine Buddha, despite it’s weird name, was much better. The land is privately-owned and they have all sorts of wellness retreats there. The best part was they were extremely dog friendly! One of the very few places we found in Santa Cruz that was. We went on a drizzly day, and there were surprisingly a lot of people (and dogs) who had the same idea. We did a 6 mile loop around the property, which wound its way along a creek and through new redwood growth with plenty of ups and down to get our heart rates up. We’d give this hike four muddy puppy paws!
Muir Beach to Rodeo Beach
While we were up in Napa we ventured to the coast and did our longest hike of the trip: 11 miles! We started at Muir Beach just north of San Francisco and made our way down the coast to Rodeo Beach. It was muddy, a bit rainy, and not crowded for most of it. The clouds and rain hindered our views a bit, but when the skies opened up we got some spectacular views of the mountains and coast. This trail kicked our butts. It was long, and it was up and down A LOT. We’re talking one whole mile uphill and one mile down. And it was an out and back so even though the downhills were nice, we knew we’d have to go right back up them. Needless to say we were tired and happy when we finished this one. We give this four muddy puppy paws and four exhausted human thumbs up.
This was my last week before starting the new job, so I figured I had to take advantage of being out of work. I had originally planned to make the trek out to Lake Tahoe area to do some backcountry camping and hiking; however, when I made a call to the ranger station about permits I asked about the trail conditions and he said “they are not bad right now, only a foot of snow on most of it, but when you head up above 8,000 ft you will need snowshoes.” OMG, I thought, there is no way a foot of snow is “not bad”! I thanked him and decided I needed a non-snowy option.
I found Anthony Chabot a quick 1 hour drive from the southern side of San Jose. I wasn’t expecting much since it was listed as a regional park, and I was only able to do some car camping in marked spots. When I first entered the park I realized I was very wrong about my preconceived notions! The park is located on a high ridge about 20-30 miles East of Oakland, with some nice 3rd(??) growth redwoods.
Anthony Chabot Lake
Matt and Snickers backpacking in the 60 degree Jan CA afternoon
During the week at the end of January there were very few people camping, so I had my pick of sites. The dog and I first set out, though, a few hours before dark for a full-pack hike around the park. We did about 4 miles that first afternoon, making a loop from the campsite–check out the Garmin Anthony Chabot- 4mi tracks. After the hike we (I!) set up the tent with the remaining daylight and got the firewood purchased at the camp entrance ready! I had only packed necessary provisions, which consisted of a rice and beans soup mix (thank you for the Xmas gift McClains!). However, since I was car camping, I wanted additional sustenance, so the dog and I went out to get s’mores, hot dogs, and beer! My beer of choice was a good camping beer, Bourbon Barrel Aged Arrogant Bastard Stout. The campfire wood was pretty wet, so it made a sorry fire for the most part, but it heated the hot dogs and I must have chowed down on half the pack before bed.
Set firewood for a tiny fire
Snickers and I curled up under the same sleeping bag when we were both finally able to settle down–sorry, no pics!
Anthony Chabot Lake in the morning
Turkeys in the campgrounds at Anthony Chabot morning
The next morning we struck camp and went for a 8 mile hike around the remainder of the park with the full pack–it simulated backcountry camping. We covered a lot of ground and had some really grueling hills. Too bad my Garmin died, so I didn’t get the tracks for the second day. After that sweaty romp, we were both beat and ready to head back to San Jose, to my sister’s place, for a shower, a nap, and to pack for a San Francisco weekend and moving to Portland!
A couple of weekends ago, we decided to head out of the city and go on our first Pacific Northwest hike. While Matt would’ve liked to summit Mt. Hood, it’s unfortunately snow-capped and we have zero winter clothes with us, so Multnomah Falls it was!
About 30 miles east of downtown Portland, through the Columbia River Gorge, is a moderate hike that meanders through the woods between two giant waterfalls. We started at the much more popular Multnomah Falls and ended the hike at Wahkeena Falls. The falls were 600ft and powerful! There was so much spray coming off of them, that the raincoats really came in handy.
There were a lot of people there that morning, but it seemed that most were just there for the shops at the bottom. Once we got past the bridge over the falls (~.25 miles) the number of people on the trail dropped by about 75%, then once we passed the lookout point (~1 mile) the trail was all but deserted. We enjoyed the moderate 5 mile loop as it climbed up and down and passed a handful of smaller waterfalls. Snickers especially enjoyed running through all the mud.
Although Wahkeena Falls was significantly less crowded, it was just as beautiful as Multnomah. It literally took my breath away…seriously, the wind and spray was so powerful on the bridge across it that it knocked the wind out of me. Oof. At the end of the hike, we got a gorgeous view of Washington across the Columbia River.
Overall it was a great day hike and we’d recommend it if you’re in the area. Oh, and afterwards we had a lunch of champions: donuts and beer 🙂 (Voodoo Donuts and Culmination Brewing for inquiring minds)
A glorious January vacation getaway to Kauai, Hawaii
We took a pure vacation-vacation to Hawaii. It was our Christmas gift to each other. We took advantage of the cheap, cheap flights in Mid-January from San Jose (since we were on the West coast!) that went 6 hours directly to the Garden Island of Kauai, Hawaii. It was such a great trip: white sand beaches, 80 degrees for highs with upper 60’s for lows, mountain hiking, small towns, and plenty of nature and waterfalls!
We stayed at the pleasant Kauai Beach Resort, which is located an easy 10-min drive from the airport. The resort is a great place to relax, if expensive; however, the most appealing reason to stay here is that it is centrally-located on the island, making all of your day trip activities less than an hour away. That is because there is really only 1 road on the perimeter of the island and it is about 70 miles from point to point, which does not quite circumnavigate island, leaving inaccessible about 20 miles of the Northwestern Na Pali coast, only available by some vigorous hiking. We rented a car and were very happy we did–it’s really the only way to get around and see the entire island. The tiny Chevy Spark did the trick for us, no need for the Jeep even on the off-road paths we took to some beaches–though you will see a lot of locals with big trucks and sand tires for off-road and on-beach driving.
The first morning, and each subsequent morning, we dined at the wonderful local spot Tip Top Café in Lihue! Everything there was good, with some hearty breakfasts to enjoy before a grueling hike, but top on the list is the banana macadamia nut pancakes topped with the coconut syrup (you have to request this syrup!!). After that we took a beautiful morning drive to Wailua Falls. On a Wed morning before 7:30a, we were the only ones there, but when we went back on a Mon afternoon there were dozens of cars so that you aren’t even able to park. Go early for some of the best morning light and to enjoy it with some privacy.
After that quick trip we were ready for some adventure and decided to go all the way to the Northwest coast where the road ends to Polihale State Park. This required a drive on a rough gravel road, but with our tiny rental car and a slow 40 min, we were able to make it back to some relatively secluded and completely un-developed beaches. There were several tents and it would be a gorgeous place to spend a night camping under the stars. The water was much too rough here to swim, but it was a wonderful place to soak up some rays! It may be worth noting that this is the western-most public beach in the USA.
On our way back, we took a side-trip to the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, Waimea Canyon. The drive up to and back from the canyon was more beautiful than the canyon itself, in my mind. So take your time and enjoy the changing landscape that quickly brings you from 0 ft to over 3000 ft above sea level–pro tip is to take 552 up to the canyon and take 550 back down to get some amazing ocean views. And, on your way back, be sure to stop at Jo-Jo’s Shaved Ice for some of the most delicious ice cream/shaved ice combinations you will have, not to mention they donate all profits to a local children’s charity.
The next day took us to the other far end of the island, to the Northeast past Princeville, where the highway ends at Haena State Park. This is where we took a vigorous hike along the Napali coast and the Kalalau Trail! We took a good day hike 2 miles along the most gorgeous costal hiking trail to the beach and then turned inland another 2 miles following the stream to the jaw-dropping 300ft Hanakapiai Falls. We were warm after the 4 mile morning hike, so I decided to join several other hikers and take a dip in the 55 degree (!!) pool under the waterfall. Worth it! After a quick shore lunch, we made the 4 mile hike back to the car, passing so many people making the hike to the falls–go early to make sure you have space and time to see it. If you wanted a good 22 mile round-trip overnight hike, you need a permit to continue to perhaps the most remote beach on the island for an excellent backpacking adventure, I hear. After our 8 mile hike, we treated ourselves to some Huli Huli chicken next to the Anahola Café–it was a German woman with an organic stand next to the road and pretty sure the chicken was the free-range ones that are so prevalent on the island which I give two thumbs up!
Jungle on the Kalalau Trail
300 foot falls, I feel so tiny
Long shot of the falls
Wonders of the falls
Napali coast, gorgeous
Napali coast, gorgeous
300 foot falls!
For some less strenuous activities, there are many. We visited the Kauai Coffee Company one day, which features a plethora of coffee tasting a small walking tour of their campus. The most amazing part is the miles of coffee trees that surround the company. As you drive through the area, you will smell the wet, bitter, caffeine filled air. It is worth a visit, especially if you have never seen any part of the coffee making process. Earlier that morning we also took some time to go snorkeling! There is no shortage of places that rent equipment, but we went to the Poipu area to rent and got recommendations for some beautiful spots in that area. A quick tip, since we are in this area. Poipu is a developed, touristy area. So, if you on the same page with my tastes, I would recommend to _avoid_ this area except for a half day of snorkeling. Though, you will find excellent snorkeling all around Kauai, just look for a beach with a rocky bottom. By the way, this was my first snorkeling experience, and I didn’t realize how *easy* is it to snorkel! You just float there and breath through the tube. The tropical fish, coral, and other marine life was so colorful, beautiful, and easy to see through the crystal clear water.
Another tip is that although a Hawaiian luau sounds like an essential Hawaii vacation experience, Beth and I found it an *expensive* and hokey experience and one that you should SKIP. Even with an open bar and buffet, you will not be able to drink enough Mai Tais or eat enough pork to make it worth your time. The show we watched was good, but not to make up for the hotel conference room in which it was hosted–yeah, you read that correctly.
I drank so many Mai Tais… and loved it! Can’t pass up that fresh Hawaii pineapple juice and rum. I did have a few beers and, not surprisingly, they all seemed made for drinking on the beach. 🙂 I see a long Wikipedia List of Hawaii Breweries, but I encountered only a few of them and 1 or 2 of them on tap at the Kauai bars–Kauai is the garden island so perhaps the less metropolitan towns makes for a smaller selection. Kona Brewery Longboard Island Lager is everywhere and is a rosy-looking refreshing draught.
Some last thoughts:
During your stay, go to a grocery store and pick up some delicious, refreshing longons and a real Hawaii pineapple to snack on–it doesn’t get any better than that since Hawaii pineapples don’t come to the mainland. Apparently you can check a case of pineapples on your plane flight back.
You also _have to_ try real poke and there is no better place than Fish Express in Lihue, which features deli-style containers of so many good, fresh things. We made that our first and last stop around our flights–we even took some with us to eat on the long flight back for dinner.
Thank you for taking this trip with us! Aloha and Mahalo!
Our first month away was a whirlwind, to say the least. Here was how it was supposed to go down:
7 days in Santa Cruz
10 days in Corralitos
5 days in Hawaii – Vacation!!
5 days in San Jose
Drive to Portland on 1/31
But….as they say: the best laid plans of mice and men often go awry. And go awry it did. So, here’s how it actually went:
7 days in Santa Cruz
1 day in Corralitos
9 days in Napa
5 days in Hawaii – Vacation!!
for Beth: 2 days in Phoenix
for Matt: 2 days in San Jose
2 days in San Francisco
Drive to Portland on 1/30
We learned a lot in our first month and will surely experience more growing pains as we figure out this lifestyle. The biggest obstacle we’ve faced is figuring out housing. When we left Louisville our plan was to use AirBNB and HomeAway to find short term, furnished rentals. After our first month, it became apparent that was not a viable option for a couple of reasons: a.) it’s expensive, like way over budget expensive, and b.) we felt more like guests in someone’s home rather than like we had our own space.
Our first week away wasn’t bad. We stayed in a small guest house in Midtown Santa Cruz that was very walkable and had everything we needed. The main downside was that it was a “guest house,” though it was actually connected to the main house so I’m not sure if that’s even an accurate description. While we had our own space, it still very much felt like we didn’t especially since the owner’s dog could be heard barking on the other side o the connecting door. Strike one, AirBNB.
Our time in Corralitos got cut from 10 days to 1 for similar reasons. The house was not like it was listed on the site (i.e. said non-smoking but smelled like smoke; said it was in town but was in the middle of nowhere), and the owner left all sorts of personal belongings that made me feel like I was intruding. Could we use the coffee? Why was there half-used food in the fridge? Luckily we were able to cancel that reservation, but only after the owner tried to change her cancellation policy so we wouldn’t be able to get a full refund. Thankfully AirBNB doesn’t allow those changes to take place retroactively. Strikes two and three.
We ended up staying in hotels for the remainder of the month, which were similar costs and also provided us our own space. Bonus: we stayed in extended stays so we had a kitchen and two bedrooms!
The Phoenix trip was for work and sprung upon me days before we left for Hawaii. And San Jose was replaced by San Francisco because there’s not a whole lot to do in San Jose. Unfortunately we didn’t get to experience much of the city because Matt got his work assignment (Topeka!) and, surprisingly – or not so surprisingly – there aren’t many flights to Kansas from Portland. We drove up a day early so we could get settled before he jetted off to work.
We’re in Portland through the end of April so hopefully we can relax a bit and enjoy the city at a less-than-breakneck pace.